CDS 4.8 isn't running at correct rpm
- Thread starter Bryce C
- Start date
Bryce C
DFW
You're being very helpful. In one sense I already knew what was going on when the bolts were spinning in place, but on the other hand I refused to believe they just thread the bolts through the metal waste tank at the factory rather than welding a nut on the inside or something. And all 4 bolts just spinning in place seems too stupid to be real, so I figured it must be me. But it's pretty simple and I'm looking right at it. Maybe I'm just whining...
First of all i believe your wastetank is aluminum so if they welded bolts or nuts they would have to be aluminum and even if the tank were stainless or just steel what if you stripped the threads or worse broke one off ?? Trust me you'd be bitching more about that than a bolt spinning in the tank
Bryce C
DFW
Forgive my pace of comprehension here but, how are stripped threads or a snapped bolt any worse in this instance than a bolt that is now just spinning freely? These bolts that are now just spinning freely are slightly loosened, so I'm a bit screwed as they will not be sealed anymore and water will just come leaking out around them it seems. And if the only solution is to cut the heads of the bolts off then drill out the shaft, how could that be better or worse? Seems like all those scenarios put me in the pretty much the same dung pile... maybe I am missing something?
By the way if I cut em and drill em out. Could I just get some rubber washers and a lock nut and bolt the new heat exchanger on in the future? I suppose there are a few ways to do it. I just want to keep it simple and not think about it for at least 5 years after I fix it. One can hope.
Well if it were a welded nut it would be aluminum and strip easy and if you were lucky and have a set of taps maybe you might get one more use outa it. Now if it were a welded stud again it would be soft aluminum and if it were to twist off you'd eighter have to find some aluminum threaded stock and have it welded on or drill it out and put a bolt in like you have now. So in my opinion you already have the lesser of the 3 evils . Now common sense dictates that if the bolt is spinning you don't have to drill it out. Simply cut the head off and use your crescent wrench as a hammer and knock it out . I personally would use a real hammer and maybe a punch. Butttt having to explain this....... next to reinstall i personally would get some stainless bolts that are the correct diameter and are threaded all the way then eighter cut some rubber gasket or rtv the head put the bolt thru and use a nut and lock washer to secure it to the tank then mount the new heat exchanger to your brand new water tight mounting studs. But thats just me
Bryce C
DFW
I'm trying. But I've never been taught anything in this realm by family or friends. I'm learning how to fix stuff as I go and trying my best. I took this to a truckmount service center when I first had electrical problems an hour away from me and they said they don't mess with pto systems on the engine side and just passed it back to me. I called them today and asked if they could help me just get it running since I fixed the electrical and the owner basically told me to figure it out.
I couldn't afford a better truckmount to get started with. But I need to figure out how to make this work, my business and livelihood are depending on it. Almost 2 months sitting in my driveway now, haven't been able to use it yet. I replaced some struts and an alternator in my truck last fall. I rebuilt the water pump in my portable. Maybe I can figure this out. It helps if I understand things as a I go. If I ask stupid questions, well, it's not because I'm not trying. You gotta start somewhere. I'm on my own here.
Thanks for explaining things to me.
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Im sorry i don't mean to pick on you. I have a hard time sometimes realizing that others are not as mechanically inclined or as well equipped to do the repairs as myself. So some things i find simple and common sense can be more complex to others. So if i get a little smart ass in my answers please don't get offended im really trying to help the best i can. The pictures below are of my personal repair facility i not only service and repair everything i own, i also have designed and fabricated my own equipment
Bryce C
DFW
I'll cut the bolt heads to get the heat exchanger off tomorrow afternoon. And I'll pick up some plugs at a hardware store to plug the coolant lines for now. Ordering a couple pressure regulators tonight. Hopefully when they come in I can install one and start using this thing while I figure out the heat problem.
They're pretty simple as van mount machines go if you can wire a stereo in to a car you should have enough knowledge to tackle the electrical. For the most part you can troubleshoot it with a test light plumbing is pretty basic just remember teflon tape can be a friend or foe depending on how and where its applied. If you have a choice between stainless or brass go stainless where ever possible . and remember this aluminum and brass make a battery and will eat each other when connected together it may appear complex but it really isn't. For the most part you can youtube just about anything you have to do or rebuild on it. You will however have to spend a little time weeding out the good information form the stuff that wanta be internet stars post.also There's alot of people right here also willing to help
Bryce C
DFW
Thanks for the tips! I'll do that with the coolant hoses instead. Had no idea about connecting aluminum and brass causing problems like that. I'll remember that, and the rest of it! I'm in Connecticut.
Now that you are aware aluminum and brass being a problem youll start noticing it when you go to hook up your tm and the customers cheap ass aluminum garden hose end has corroded and fused solid to the brass hose bib and you eighter hook to there leaky hose or find another hose bib to connect.
I just had a thought, Blue Baron used to and maybe still does make an all stainless heat exchanger for hydramaster ptos. Is was touted as higher quality and much higher pressure rated than the copper ones . From what I've heard i myself wouldn't buy a machine from this company ive heard alot of complaints about him but i have heard that they do make a great heat exchanger that will retro fit a hydramaster pto and its rated at 3500psi where as the copper ones are only 900psi but i personally won't run um above 500 and i have 4 bad ones setting on my shop floor because o went a little higher. Might ask around on this and other fourms if your interested and see if you can a few people that has um and see what they say. There's also a bunch of YouTube videos on there heat exchangers
Nate The Great
Member
I'd go with TTI Fabrications AKA John's Custom HX.. http://www.tticustomfabrication.com/Photo_Gallery.html
I'm not knocking BlueBaron, just TTI has a proven track record of being good.. My coolant HX is a John's HX, and it maintains the heat well while being compact..
I'm not knocking BlueBaron, just TTI has a proven track record of being good.. My coolant HX is a John's HX, and it maintains the heat well while being compact..
